At the unchanged atelier of L’Académie de la Grande Chaumière, you might find yourself sitting in the very same chair where Pablo and a few of his friends, such as Manet and Cezanne, sat sketching their model a century ago. It’s open to the public for sketching workshops in the afternoon, Monday to Saturday, except on Wednesday when there’s an evening session from 7-10pm. No reservations are necessary, just show up with paper and pencils, no teacher, just the model. (14 rue de la Grande Chaumière, 6eme; See the ‘Free Workshop’ and ‘School’ sections of the website for all prices and timetables: grande-chaumiere.fr/en).

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Below the deck of La Nouvelle Seine there’s a red velvet theatre where a talented and most glamorous troupe of burlesque artists put on an enchanting and memorable show at the weekends from 11pm. (3 Quai de Montebello, 5th arrondissement; check the Cabaret Burlesque calendar on cabaret-burlesque.com/category/calendrier/) 

Photo credit: Kalymar

The Grand Mosque in the 5th arrondissement also plays host to one of the most charming cafés in Paris, housed within two leafy Moroccan courtyards, both covered in stunning mosaics. The energetic waiters are always ready to ceremoniously pour you more fresh mint tea to accompany those syrupy Arabic pastries. The café is open until midnight for tea under the stars while contemplating the fascinating history within its walls. (1 rue Daubenton, 5th arrondissement; open every day from 9am to midnight, last service at 10.30pm)

Photo credit: Carolyn Chen

The double chocolate baguette bread from the Liberté boulangerie (a specialist bakery decked out in white marble) beats a box of macarons any day. Worth stopping in on your way to a picnic on the canal. (39 rue des Vinaigriers; 10th arrondissement from breakfast - 8pm)

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As long as the weather is good in the summer months, tango enthusiasts, advanced and never-before-danced, gather at the mini amphitheatres along the Seine in the 5th arrondissement, to tango until twilight. A little old man sits on the edge of the river with his radio playing Argentinian accordion music and guarding the dancers’ belongings. If you’re too shy to join in, sitting with a bottle of wine on the steps and watching these dancers is still absolutely mesmerising and incredibly romantic. Spectators watch quietly, listening to the dragging of tango feet on the stone banks. It’s people-watching with a very sexy twist. (Square Tino Rossi, Quai St. Bernard, 5eme. Wednesday - Sunday from 8.30pm. There are also free tango classes with Ray and Eric from 7pm. On the same riverbank, there are also stages for salsa dancing and 1950s jiving). In winter, move the latin dancing inside for a vibrant ambiance at Studio de l’Ermitage and feel like you’re in Havana for the night (8 rue de l’Ermitage, 20th arrondissement, 01 44 62 02 86; See the website for details studio-ermitage.com). 

Photo credit: Vanessa Grall/Messy Nessy Chic

A few of my favourites are Passage de l’Ancre, where you’ll finding Paris’ last umbrella repair shop (3eme), Rue Cremieux, my ‘little Portobello road in Paris’  (11eme) and Villa de l’Ermitage, a leafy urban hamlet complete with a shared vegetable garden. Find the signpost at 315 rue des Pyrenees, 20th arrondissement.

Image credit: Vanessa Grall/Don't Be A Tourist in Paris

Paris still has working vineyards (I count eight) and the littlest-known one sits on the quiet hilltop village of Butte Bergeyre, accessible by three staircases or a single winding road. Once you reach the very top of the stairs at 100 metres altitude, a very special view of Montmartre in the distance awaits, with a halo of sunlight perfectly centred over the Sacré-Cœur if you catch a good sunset. (Hilltop staircase access at 21 rue Manin or via rue Michel Tagrine; vineyard viewpoint and veggie garden at the angle of rue Georges Lardennois and rue Remy de Gourmont).

Photo credits: Vanessa Grall/Messy Nessy Chic

Pop the question at the Sorbonne Observatory, where they used to teach astronomy to university students over a century ago. Under the wooden dome, forty metres above the city, it the large telescope that dates back to 1935. The enchanting evening tour comes complete with stargazing from the panoramic balcony that boasts breath-taking views of Paris. There can sometimes be a waiting list of several months, which only makes it all the more special, of course. (17 rue de la Sorbonne, 5th arrondissement)

Photo credits: Wikicommons/@misteur_z

Who gets the award for the most beautifully plated food in Paris? That would probably be Dilia, a small, intimate restaurant hidden away in the 20th arrondissement, deserving of a Michelin star. Somewhere in between French and Italian, you need to be open to trying unfamiliar ingredients, and a six-course tasting menu. (1 rue d'Eupatoria, 20eme, 0953562414; Tues-Sat for lunch & dinner)

Photo credit: Dilia

Chez Nénesse is a real local family-run bistro (like they used to be), and everything here is prepared by an elderly husband-and-wife team, M. et Mme Leplu. You’ll still get that classic French ambiance, with red chequered tablecloths and black-and-white tiled flooring straight off a French film set. (17 rue de Saintonge, 3rd arrondissement; +33 1 42 78 46 49) 

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Forget those big tourist boats that ferry up and down the Seine, shouting the names of famous monuments at you over the loudspeaker. Rent your own electric boat for up to five people from €40 an hour, or a boat for seven people for the entire day at €28 a head – no licence needed. They’ll even prepare a picnic basket for you on request. (Bassin de la Villette, 37 quai de la Seine, 19th arrondissement.) find the details at boating-paris-marindeaudouce.com ; every day 9.30-10pm) 

Photo credit: GWEL

An hour’s drive south-east from the steps of Notre Dame, lies a lemon-yellow castle and its enchanting gardens. Le Moulin Jaune is the French residence of Slava Polunin, ‘avant-garde performance artist’ and ‘the world’s supreme clown’. He grew up in Communist Russia, looks a little like Father Christmas, and dreams up ideas for his shows and festivals while lying on an antique bed that floats down the Marne River through his property. This Dali-meets-Disney wonderland is as surreal as it sounds. (Open days listed on moulinjaune.com; reservations via Maison du Tourisme du Pays Créçois, +33 1 64 63 70 19, tourisme@payscrecois.net)

Photo credits: Le Moulin Jaune

Don't Be a Tourist in Paris: The Messy Nessy Chic Guide. Vanessa Grall (Roads Publishing).